For most people photography starts as the sun rises and ends with sunset. Unfortunately these people are missing some of the best and most productive times to photograph. Twilight is that time when there’s just a hint of color in the sky. There is approximately a 10 minute window when the light is just right for twilight photography. It happens twice a day 1/2 hour before sunrise and 1/2 hour after sunset. Why is it worth getting up so early or staying out that late? When photographing at this time the sky turns a cobalt blue and contrasts beautifully with the warm hues of morning and man-made lights. This phenomenon happens whether it’s raining or cloudy, no matter what the weather is. It is a perfect time for capturing city skyline’s, or anywhere there are man-made lights. I suggest keeping the cameras white balance setting on daylight, as this ensures capturing the beautiful cobalt blue color in the sky. You will need to use a tripod because the shutter speeds will be long. I think you’ll agree, it’s definitely worth the extra effort of getting up earlier and staying out later.
At our Weekly Sunrise and Sunset Photo Workshops you will learn to take advantage of the beautiful twilight time.
March 8th, 2011
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Dan Waters |
Photo Tips, Uncategorized, landcape photography, piers |
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This is a little story I read the other day and I thought I’d share it with you.
By Kenny McKeithan
“A street performer, long haired and shaggy, sat playing his saxophone on the streets of Manhattan when tourist happened by. The tourist, lost, asked the street performer “How do you get to Carnegie Hall?” The old street performer looked up at the tourist over his dirty glasses and said, ”Practice man, practice!!”
And so it is with our photography, like anything else, to get better or excel at it one has to practice it.”
A quote by Percy Harris, “Skill in photography is a result of practice not purchase.”
Thanks Dan Waters
February 14th, 2011
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Dan Waters |
Photo Tips, piers |
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Silhouettes
By Dan Waters
Silhouettes are one of the easiest ways to take your photography to a new level. They almost always have that wow effect. Frequently, beginners accidentally make silhouettes by placing their subject in front of a strong light source. However, the best silhouettes are well thought out and planned in advance. The shutter speeds are generally higher because you’re exposing for the light, which means you can hand hold without worrying about camera movement.
There are a couple simple guidelines to help you make great silhouettes.
1. Place your subject in front of a light source.
2. Expose for the light source. In other words make sure you’re getting a correct exposure for the light behind your subject. You can do this by framing your shot without your subject
pushing the shutter button down half way to lock the exposure, then re-frame to include the subject and take the photograph.
3. The subject has to be simple and easily recognizable.
4. Change your angle and perspective until the elements in your photograph are clearly visible, with no overlaps.
If you follow these simple guidelines, silhouettes are easy to master and will give a fresh look to your photographs.
January 23rd, 2011
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Dan Waters |
Photo Tips, Uncategorized, piers, seascapes |
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- Purple pier behind the dunes at Jockeys Ridge State Park in Nags Head North Carolina.
Buy a card or print of this photo.
All lenses have a built in star filter. To get the star effect stop your lens down to a very small aperture opening (large f-stop number). Any small pinpoint of light will become a star. Lens apertures are constructed of blades and the number of blades determines the shape of the aperture.The number of points on the star reflects this shape. By counting the number of points you can tell how many slides the aperture opening has. If you’re star has eight points then the aperture opening is an octagon. More expensive, better quality lenses have more blades in the aperture, to keep the aperture as round as possible. This helps make the boca (out of focus areas in a photograph) more pleasing. Wide-angle lenses seem to work best for this technique because the light source has to be small or a pinpoint in the photograph.
November 24th, 2010
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Dan Waters |
Photo Tips, landcape photography, piers |
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High-key sounds like something to do with music, actually I’m talking about high-key photography. It is just as the name implies, the image’s key tones are high or light instead of midrange. The tones are moved up, or high on the exposure scale. A high key photograph can be made by intentionally overexposing an image in the camera or by using Photoshop’s curves or level adjustments.
Pier into the Light
This image of Kitty Hawk Pier was exposed two f-stops over what the camera metered. The camera was on a tripod with a long shutter speed which turned the waves into mist.
High key images are very easy to make. Simply use the exposure compensation dial on your camera to over expose one or two stops. Give it a try, I know you’ll be pleased with the results.
Dan Waters
September 30th, 2010
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Dan Waters |
Photo Tips, Uncategorized, landcape photography, piers, seascapes |
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Here are a few student photos from recent workshops I have taught. I had a wonderful time sharing experiences with the students and I’m proud of the work they have produced.
Thank you. Dan Waters
July 29th, 2010
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Dan Waters |
Flower & Garden, landcape photography, piers, seascapes, workshops |
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Please bear with us as we are working to get the website up and running. The workshop schedule will be posted soon. So check back often.
August 13th, 2009
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admin |
Uncategorized, landcape photography, piers, seascapes |
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